To date, ten perfumers/creators have answered the call! Natalie Gracia Cetto, Antoine Maisondieu, Sophie Labbé, Calice Becker, Bruno Jovanovic, Anne Flipo, Nathalie Lorson, Fabrice Pellegrin, Quentin Bisch and Olivier Pescheux have each devised a fragrance for Essential Parfums. The young French brand has built its identity on a return to basics, with a clear mission statement: "Simplicity as the ultimate luxury."
The brand gives each perfumer a simple brief: to compose a mixed fragrance around an ingredient or an accord, which is emphasised in the naming — Orange x Santal for Natalie Gracia Cetto (Givaudan), Patchouli Mania by Fabrice Pellegrin (dsm-firmenich), Néroli Botanica for the company’s latest addition, signed Anne Flipo (IFF) — the perfumer’s name also appears on the label. The brand asks each of them to express their talent in a rounded style, using a high percentage of naturals (currently 86% to 93%), with at least one ingredient from an ethical and sustainable programme.
A unique product mix
"Essential Parfums is the only niche brand signed by the greatest perfumers, with a responsible and sustainable approach, and at an affordable price. We are right in tune with the times because customers are increasingly sensitive to the quality of ingredients. All our eco-responsible elements express our values," comments Géraldine Archambault, the brand’s Creator. Each eau de parfum (16% concentrated) is free from colourants, while the secondary packaging leaves the FSC-certified virgin corrugated cardboard visible and uses as little glue as possible.
The offer quickly won over consumers. Since 2020, the company has enjoyed dramatic growth, generating EUR 60 million in retail sales in 2023. The brand has been on sale in the Scent Room at Printemps Haussmann since 2019, and a pop-up store opened at Galeries Lafayette on the Champs Élysées in June 2024. Between these two dates, two directly-operated boutiques were opened in strategic locations in Paris, one in the Marais district and the other on Boulevard Saint-Germain.
Today, "Essential Parfums is self-financing and doing very well," points out the founder.
The price positioning, which is particularly attractive in this niche market, given the quality of the juices, certainly contributes to this success. The 100 ml bottle, which can be refilled ad infinitum, costs EUR 82, and 150 ml aluminium refills, EUR 95.
"Compared with similar brands, our juices cost the same per kilo, but they account for half the cost price. That is unheard of, even in the niche market. So we make choices: a simple cap rather than one with a magnet, a basic box in virgin cardboard..." continues Géraldine Archambault.
A made-to-measure bottle to move upmarket
Given the sales volumes achieved, Essential Parfums has decided to change its glass sourcing from a standard model created and supplied by Coverpla to its own signature bottle.
"The new bottle strives for simplicity, chic and status. It is part of the brand’s strategy to move upmarket," stresses Géraldine Archambault, who entrusted Alnoor Mitha de Bharat, founder of the Objets de Convoitises design agency, with the task of designing it. "The work was very subtle, like a facelift, but with elements of personalisation added to the container," explains the designer.
A new mould was created by glassmaker Zignago Vetro Brosse, which offered a sufficiently white recycled glass option. "As a young brand, our agility is an asset. We can easily integrate innovative solutions," specifies Géraldine Archambault.
Brand differentiation comes down to details. The edges are more pronounced. A base raises the neck. The brand logo is engraved on the bottom of the bottle. A recessed window at the facing makes it possible to position the paper label, to give it more elegance. "We also worked hard on the label’s graphic design, and in particular on adding a texture and puff ink, a play of matt and gloss," comments Alnoor.
The agency perfected the brand’s graphic charter (including the logo) and designed merchandising elements, particularly for the corner on the Champs-Élysées. "I brought indoors the green colour of the shop fronts because it reflects the naturalness of Essential Parfums. The design is inspired by Géraldine’s first boutiques, with the same codes: wood, copper, brass, metal tubes, light marble, and cane work. The idea was to bring together all these elements in simple, straightforward shapes, square enough to match the bottle’s aesthetics. A restrained simplicity with a touch of finesse and sharp edges," emphasises Alnoor.
New projects
This promising momentum means that Essential Parfums can now consider opening new boutiques outside the French capital, starting with Lyon and Bordeaux. The brand is also exporting very well, and an additional boutique is planned in London.
"The eleventh fragrance will involve Dominique Ropion," confides the founder. "And we will also be offering perfume extracts in 30 ml formats from October. Alnoor led the design phase and Quentin Bisch has already worked on a version of the best-selling Bois Impérial." Sustained activity for a fairly young brand whose business model is already proving its worth.
