The skin is the body’s first external barrier and the organ most exposed to external aggressions. It is therefore the part of the body that most reflects the effects of time, our lifestyle and health. Wrinkles, tired skin with less radiance, dark circles, loss of firmness and elasticity: there are many visible consequences of age on the skin. Thanks to the progress of science, we have a better knowledge of the factors behind skin aging and their mechanisms of action and can therefore find solutions to counter them. As a result, anti-aging solutions are flourishing on the market, with increasing numbers of consumers seeking to limit or even prevent these marks of time from appearing.
We can identify two ways of managing the marks of time on our bodies:
– For mature skin, a curative approach is appropriate. It is thus a question of attenuating the manifestations of age already evident on the skin, while avoiding the emergence of new ones. In line with the "Positive Aging" movement, the trend is to accept the signs of aging while taking care of your skin.
– For the "youngest", the trend is towards prevention. Consumers are looking to block the appearance of the marks of time, and this is becoming a concern earlier and earlier. The effects of aging are therefore treated before they appear.
As a result, consumers are increasingly adopting an approach to wellness and holistic health that emphasizes prevention rather than cure. This trend is also valid for the anti-aging market. It’s about slowing down the effects of aging before they happen.
This implies the appearance of a younger target on the market and has a direct impact on market growth.
The anti-aging market is booming
The global anti-aging products market was valued at USD 40.49 billion in 2020 and is expected to expand at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 5.4% from 2021 to 2028.
According to a survey by Real Self in 2020, 62% of Americans used anti-aging products as a part of their daily skincare routine.* Anti-aging solutions are becoming more diverse and are destined to be used more extensively in daily life.
The drivers of this growth
– The proportion of disposable income dedicated to skincare is increasing: In line with this trend, Europe is expected to be the largest market by 2028 due to the high per capita expenditure of consumers on cosmetic products. [1]
– Greater product accessibility: Although premium anti-aging products have conventionally been purchased at department stores, specialty stores have made them more accessible and widely available. Anti-aging products are now also being sold through online stores, salons, spas, specialist retail shops, and direct response television such as infomercials and home shopping channels. [2]
– Aging Population: Premature aging of the skin is also a growing concern among the residents of most developed countries, especially in Europe. With this increasing awareness alongside the availability of a wide range of anti-aging products in the market, the demand for anti-aging products is very high, which directly drives the growth of the market. [3]
– We’ve already talked about it: the target is getting younger with the arrival of Millennials: This generation represents a key opportunity for holistic beauty routines. Indeed, around 50% them admit to being more attentive to their health. [4]
Chronological skin aging can’t be prevented, but we can intervene against factors that accelerate the process like exposure to UV, pollution etc. Therefore the aim of anti-aging solutions is to protect the skin from external aggressions and stimulate the production of structural components or boost its defenses.
Collagen
The skin consists of three layers: the epidermis, the dermis and the hypodermis. The cells of the epidermis regenerate cyclically (approximately every 21 days) which allows the skin to maintain its radiance.
The dermis contains collagen, elastin and other fibers that support the skin’s structure. Those elements give skin its smooth and youthful appearance.
With time, the dermis produces less collagen, causing a weakening of the epithelial structures of the skin (tissues composed of several layers of cells), making it thinner, flabbier and more wrinkled.
Stimulating the production of extracellular matrix (ECM) is essential to ensure a healthy and younger looking skin. To achieve this objective, we can count on Transforming Growth Factor (TGF- β), an important stimulator of synthesis of several ECM components. Its pathway is well known and plays a crucial role in skin aging.
With Tasmanol™, Robertet Health & Beauty offers an ideal anti-aging solution. Tasmanol™ is a 100% plant-based ingredient obtained via CO2 extraction from Tasmania Lanceoleta leaves. This extract delivers polygodial, an active compound that has restorative and regenerative properties.
In order to prove the effectiveness of its ingredient, Robertet conducted studies on stretch marked human skin. Indeed, numerous studies suggest that fibroblasts play a key role in the pathogenesis of stretch marks. To reduce the visibility of stretch marks, fibroblasts should be stimulated in order to recover a normal metabolism and to synthesize new collagen and elastin fibers in the skin.
In an ex-vivo study on human skin fragments with stretch marks, TasmanolTM has been shown to significantly stimulate TGF-β release and increase pro-collagen I and elastin production.
A sample of skin fragments with stretch marks received a daily topical application of Tasmanol™ at 2% in PBS for 12 days while the other part received a placebo. 3 parameters were assessed: TGF-ß, pro-collagen I and elastin.
Tasmanol™ (2%) induced a stimulation of fibroblasts leading to a significant increase in TGF-ß. A significant increase of pro-collagen I and elastin were observed in the skin, which suggests a normalization of extracellular matrix production.
A clinical study was conducted on 30 women with a 2% TasmanolTM oil vs placebo, 2 applications per day. This study observed the following:
– An increase in the density of the dermis
– An increase in the thickness of the dermis
– A decrease in the depth of stretch marks
– An improvement in the firmness of the skin
– A visible decrease in the appearance of stretch marks measured and observed by women
Thanks to its powerful action on the extra cellular matrix, Tasmanol can reduce the signs of aging and stretch marks.
Oxidative stress and pollution
Oxidative stress plays a major role in both intrinsic and extrinsic aging mechanisms. It can be caused by UV radiation, air pollution, persistent organic pollutants (chemicals from industrial processes, waste, agriculture, etc.) that are inhaled or absorbed by the skin. [5]
Oxidative stress manifests itself through the production of molecules called "reactive oxygen species" (ROS), a natural by-product of cellular oxidative metabolism. These reagents are unstable molecules, which react easily with other cellular molecules due to the presence of unpaired valence electrons. The free electrons of these molecules can destroy the bonds between atoms, and thus alter molecules.
Reactive oxygen derivatives therefore cause damage to DNA, proteins, lipids (especially cell membranes) and reduce the level of antioxidants in the skin.
Over time, the body’s cells produce more and more ROS. Therefore, the skin naturally becomes dull, loses its firmness, wrinkles appear etc. Moreover, exposure to external aggressions (UV, pollutants, etc.) increases the production of ROS and accelerates the skin’s aging process.
The WHO estimates that 99% of the world’s population is currently exposed to polluted air, in particular because of fossil fuels. [6] Therefore, protecting oneself from such external aggressions is a major problem.
To counteract the effect of urban pollution on the skin, Robertet Health & Beauty has used extracts of Yerba maté (Ilex Paraguariensis) leaves to create Ulti’Mate™. Ulti’Mate™ is a natural active ingredient that helps the skin to protect itself against pollution by maintaining the skin’s antioxidant capacity at a high level despite the skin stress caused by atmospheric pollutants.
Ulti’Mate™ is obtained from the Robertet Group’s upcycling program after a primary extraction of Yerba mate - Ilex paraguariensis - leaves used for the production of essential oil, to extract the numerous antioxidant molecules.
Ulti’Mate™ was also the subject of an original study which included an objectivation in real conditions with an open bus tour of Paris. A clinical study was carried out with a patented technology enabling the measurement of skin antioxidant activity after an Ulti’Mate application under conditions of severe exposure to urban pollution. During a tour of Paris, 10 women with an average age of 37 participated in the experiment to test the effectiveness of Ulti’Mate™. Half of the participants’ face was protected by a 1% Ulti’Mate™ serum, while the other half received a placebo. The antioxidant capacity of their skin was measured using a patented innovation, PAOT technology, developed by the European Institute of Antioxidants. This technology makes it possible to attribute a PAOT index to the skin, which reflects its antioxidant activity and thus its capacity to resist pollution. The higher the index, the more the skin is protected.
The conclusion of this study was that Ulti’Mate™ helps build up the skin’s natural defenses and form a barrier against pollution related skin issues after 1 hour of application. It also keeps the skin highly shielded during urban pollution exposure compared to the "control" area.
UV protection to limit photoaging
In addition to contributing to oxidative stress, UV radiation can alter the structure of the dermis. UV exposure is thus responsible for 80% of the visible changes commonly attributed to skin aging including pigmentation disorders, wrinkles, as well as texture and fine lines .
To understand the importance of UV protection in preventing premature skin aging, it is necessary to understand the action of UV on the structure of the skin.
UV radiation affecting the skin is composed of two different types of waves, UVA and UVB.
UVA rays
– Penetrate deep into the dermis
– Are responsible for ROS* overproduction
– Cause damage through indirect photosensitizing reactions
– Play a major role in tanning and photoaging
UVB rays
– Completely absorbed by the epidermis
– Highly mutagenic
– Primarily responsible for skin reddening and sunburn
– Play a key role in various skin disorders
UVA light induces the expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) that degrade interstitial collagen. In addition, they inhibit the expression of tissue inhibitors of metalloproteinases (TIMPs). Thus, by stimulating the expression of MMPs and blocking their inhibition, UVA rays cause the degradation of collagen and therefore premature aging of the skin.
In order to prevent premature aging of the skin induced by the overproduction of ROS and the degradation of dermal proteins, it is necessary to have an effective UV protection. This protection can also be used before the appearance of skin damage. It can be provided by antioxidant solutions to counteract the effects of ROS.
Holimel® is a 100% natural melon juice concentrate, obtained from the melon variety with the highest superoxide dismutase (SOD) content in the world: Cantaloupe melon. Holimel® acts by boosting the body’s natural antioxidant defenses thus preventing oxidative stress and, helping to reduce, two of the most common processes associated with skin disorders. 100% bioactive, Holimel® demonstrates proven clinical efficacy against UV radiation side effects, demonstrated through both oral and topical routes.
Holimel® has a proven mechanism of action:
– It boosts the skin’s own antioxidant defenses, increasing the release of the body’s primary antioxidant enzymes by up to 63% (SOD, Catalase, and Glutathione Peroxidase).
– Holimel® enhances skin protection against U.V: it also reduces UV radiation’s harmful effects on skin cells by decreasing sunburn cells by 72%.
– It controls melanin synthesis by regulating several genes involved in melanogenesis.
Beyond UV protection, thanks to its antioxidant power, Holimel® also contributes to improving the uniformity of skin tone as well as enhancing its radiance. The skin is thus simultaneously protected and embellished.
In a double-blind clinical study, Holimel has been shown to increase Minimal Erythema Dose (MED) after just 4 days of topical administration and 1 month of oral supplementation.
Whether administered orally or topically, Holimel protect the skin against UV radiation and associated damages. Results observed in the double active group demonstrate the synergic effect of both routes with higher efficacy.
This last result highlights the optimization of the effects of this ingredient when it is used in both topical application and oral administration: it illustrates the principle of combining topical treatment and nutricosmetics: In & Out.
Conclusion
Prevention is also a way to slow down or delay the appearance of the signs of aging on the skin. Providing it with the necessary elements to defend itself against external aggressions such as pollution and UV rays allows it to maintain its integrity and limit its premature aging. At the same time, maintaining the skin in such a way that it retains optimal hydration greatly limits the appearance of wrinkles.
However, protecting your skin is not merely limited to external protection. Taking care of your skin can also be done from the inside. The expression "you are what you eat" is increasingly self-evident. In recent years, there has been an explosion in the nutricosmetics market, which is aimed at skin and hair care. It reaches a larger target group, including women but also increasingly young people and men.
In fact, some studies have focused on the gut-brain-skin axis and have shown that certain skin problems are directly caused by a disturbance in the intestinal microbiota. [7] The gut plays an essential role in the health of the skin, and most certainly in its aging. There is no secret: to have a healthy skin, it is necessary to provide the necessary nutrients, both inside and outside. These nutrients can be acquired on the one hand, through food, but also by complementing through nutricosmetics. A double In & Out protection can therefore be an effective combination that is increasingly popular with consumers.
As we have seen with Holimel®, the combination of the two In & Out applications optimizes the effects of the solutions.
